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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.